The use of metal embroidery in Indian textiles and costumes, especially
the ones used for special occasions or ceremonial purposes, demonstrate
the importance of gold and silver within the culture.
Zari, that means "gold" in Persian, refers to the metallic
threads used in weaving. Zardozi embroidery involves the use of
different shapes of metal wire like springs, coils, strips, ribbons and
discs. Embroiderers carefully select from an elaborate assortment of
components to create their own unique designs. The wedding vest is
heavily adorned with such embroidery.
Zardosi is also called Ari and was at its peak in the Mughal era. The
art declined for lack of precious metals for the purpose and high costs.
It was again revived in 20th century with the use of plated copper that
reduced the costs and gave the same effect.